Monday, May 11, 2009

Hanging tough in high winds

Heidi called yesterday and said that the team remained at Camp 3 for the day. High winds and low visibility compelled them to stay put in their well-fortified encampment. Hopefully today will afford them an opportunity to head up to high camp.

The route ahead of them involves the most technical climbing on the West Buttress. They climb up moderately steep snow for the first 1,400 feet before things get steep. The snow turns to 40-50 degree ice for the next 600 feet and the climbers ascend using fixed ropes as protection against possible slips. This takes them to the ridge, where the path follows more or less along the crest, weaving in and out of the rocks all the way to high camp.

High camp is a challenging place to set up to set up tents on a good day, and very hard to deal with when the wind is blowing. Climbers need a pretty good day to make this move. hopefully, the winds will taper off and they'll get a shot at it!

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